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Central
Vacuum System Installation Guide
Let us help
you plan your central vacuum installation with helpful
information and tips. |
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When putting together the
best installation guide for our customers, our research
lead us to the manuals written by many leading central
vacuum manufactures. Our
installation guide is put together using information
from these professional companies along with the
knowledge and experience of our technical staff.
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Congratulations on the purchase of your
new central vacuum system. It will make cleaning your
home easier and improve indoor air quality. The system
typically can be installed in virtually any home with no
costly alterations and very little mess. This guide will
show how to install your central vacuum system in your
home in a few easy steps.
Before you begin installation, read this
guide. Also review local building codes so your
installation complies with them. |
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Tools Needed
For Installing A Central Vacuum
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Drywall Saw (optional)
Electrical Tape / Duct Tape
Electric Drill - 1/2" w/ Right-Angle If Possible
Flashlight
Hammer
Hole Saw or Cutter - 2-1/4"
Metal Coat Hanger
Pencil |
Pipe Cutter or Hacksaw
Safety Goggles
Screwdrivers (Phillips & Flat Head)
Tape Measure
Stud Finder
Utility Knife
Wire Stripper |
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Helpful
Two Part
Central Vacuum
Installation Video
Brought To Your By Eureka, This Informative Video
Will Help Guide You Through A Central Vacuum Installation. For
More Information, And Areas Not Covered In The Video, Read
Below.
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General
Information
Important Electrical Information
Most central vacuum cleaners are designed to operate with
alternating current (110/120 Volts), however some models may
operate with 220 volts. Make sure to connect your central vacuum
to an electrical circuit in compliance with the specifications
indicated on the systems nameplate.
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Grounded For Your
Safety
For your safety and protection, central vacuum systems are
equipped with a 3-prong plug on the power cord. It must be
plugged into a properly grounded and polarized 3-prong
receptacle. If the receptacle you intend to use will not accept
the 3-prong plug, or if you are not sure the receptacle is
properly grounded, you should have a properly grounded 3-prong
receptacle installed according to the National Electrical Code
by a qualified electrician.
Do not, under any circumstances, bend or remove the round
grounding prong from the plug in order to make it fit a 2-prong
receptacle.
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Planning
Each one of our installation kits contains a sufficient number
of fittings to complete most installations. Some installations
however, may require additional fittings and elbows. As this
guide will show you, there are instances where either a 45
degree elbow or a sweeping 90 elbow can be used. Maximize your
fittings, because should you need another 90 degree elbow to
complete the installation and only have one 45 degree elbow your
installation will be left incomplete. After you have planned
your system, count all the components in your installation kit
to ensure that you will have sufficient parts and fittings for
the completion of the installation.
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Central Vacuum
Unit Location
In selecting the power unit location the following points should
be carefully considered. Install the central vacuum as far from
the living area as possible so that normal household activities
can be carried out with as little noise as possible coming from
the vacuum while vacuuming. This also insures that there is no
recirculation of dust in the living area.
An ideal location for the power unit would be the garage where
the unit's inlet valve (if your unit has one) will come in handy
when you wish to vacuum your car, and changing the filter or
emptying the dirt will be easier. Other suitable locations can
also be found in a basement, basement crawl space, furnace room,
under weather-proof sin deck, laundry room, carport or any
ventilated storage area. |
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Number of Wall Inlet Valves
& Their
Locations
Inlet valves can be installed either on the floors or in the
walls and the process normally requires two people. One person
should hold the end of a 30 ft. string at the proposed wall
inlet location while the other will determine the furthest reach
of the 30 ft. length. If the blueprint of the premises is
available, the use of a 7-1/2" string will be of great help
determining the inlet valve location.
Simply lay the string from the proposed inlet valve location
into every corner of the areas you intend to reach from that
particular inlet. The end of the hose should reach both floor
and ceiling to enable you to vacuum your draperies and blinds.
Repeat this procedure until you are sure that the most effective
locations for all inlet valves have been chosen.
Existing home: The inlet valve must be within 6 feet (1.83m)
of an electrical outlet to provide power to the powerhead. A
switch on the handle sends a signal through “low-voltage” (24
volt) wiring to turn the power unit on and off.
Choosing the right spot for the inlet valve
Use a stud finder, or sound out the wall, to make sure the site
for the inlet valve is between the studs and that the space is
open behind the wall board. Also check the other side of the
wall to make sure it’s clear of obstructions such as utilities
and outlets. Caution: Do not install an inlet behind a door
or in a wall that has a pocket door. Then have a helper hold
the end of the hose at the proposed site for the inlet valve and
take the other end and walk around the room (s). If you have no
helper, use a piece of cord or string that is 30 feet (9.15m)
long—the length of the hose. You want to be able to reach
everywhere from floor to ceiling even with furniture in the way.
You may have to choose a different location or add another inlet
to cover the entire floor. Remember, one inlet usually lets you
cover about 700-800 square feet (63-72 sq m). Repeat this on
each floor of your home.
Also keep in mind that staircases are more conveniently vacuumed
from the top downward. Therefore, an inlet valve should be
located close enough to the bottom of the staircase so that the
hose reaches the upper step comfortably. This way the hose is
always behind you and doesn't get into the path of the work
area. Also keep in mind that 30 ft.
hoses are the most common, however 36 ft hoses or longer are
also available. Now proceed with the installation of the branch
lines from the inlet valve to the intended main line location.
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Plan the tubing installation
Before you install tubing to carry dust and dirt to the power
unit, plan your route. Run the tubing beneath the sub-floor
whenever possible because it makes tubing easier to work with
and creates the shortest path between the inlet valves and the
power unit. If the tubing has to run next to a water heater or
chimney flue—for your safety and to comply with building
codes—use metal central vacuum system tubing for that section.
Hint: A local central vacuum system dealer may provide metal
tubing. If the tubing runs through an unheated attic or
other unprotected environment, wrap it with insulation to
prevent condensation and the possibility of clogging.
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Install the inlet valves
Existing
home inlet valve installation
Directly beneath the proposed inlet site, use a flat bladed
screwdriver to wedge the molding aside. Then, take a wire coat
hanger and snip a long straight piece from it. Insert the wire
into the chuck of your drill and then holding the drill
vertically beneath the intended inlet site, slowly drill down
into the floor alongside the baseboard or where the wall and
floor intersect. Release the wire from the drill chuck and leave
it in the pilot hole to serve as a locator. Then go to the
basement and look for the wire protruding from the ceiling.
Now you can see where the inlet valve is going to be above you.
Measure from the wire to find the center of the sole plate and
wall cavity. Note: You may want to drill a 3/4" (1.9cm)
diameter inspection hole to avoid cutting into the bottom of a
stud or other inner-wall obstructions. Then using a flash
light and/or probe, inspect the interior of the wall to be sure
there are no obstructions. If there are obstructions, you may
have to move the inlet site. If there are no obstructions, drill
a 2-1/4" diameter hole (5.7cm) in the bottom of the hollow wall
through the sole plate. Make sure to cut in between the walls.
The tubing is 2" (5.08cm) in diameter, so the hole will give you
room to manipulate the tubing. Again, check for obstructions
using a flash light and a length of tubing. If there are no
obstructions, go back upstairs and mark the inlet location on
the wall. To do that, at the electrical outlet adjacent to the
inlet site, measure up from the floor to the center of the
outlet. At the proposed inlet site measure up from the floor the
same distance. This will be the center of your inlet valve. If
you prefer, you may locate the inlet at a more convenient
height. Some homeowners prefer the inlet at finger tip height,
about 30" (76.2cm) above the floor.
Take a wall mounting bracket, cut or snap off
the new construction flange and dispose of it. In new
construction, nail the tab to the stud. (See New Construction
inlet valve installation.) Use a level to make sure the mounting
bracket is level. Then trace the outline of the mounting bracket
onto the wall. Take a utility knife and score the lines. Then
use the utility knife or a drywall saw to cut a hole though the
drywall. Hint: A drywall saw makes the job easier. Attach
a 90 degree dual elbow fitting to the flange on the back of the
mounting bracket. Note: The ends of the fitting are different
lengths to accommodate walls of different widths. Apply glue
around the outside of the flange and twist the 90 degree elbow
fitting into place. Make sure the open end faces the direction
it will meet the tubing—usually straight down. Note: If
tubing has to run from the attic, the opening of the 90 degree
fitting will face upward. Caution: Never apply glue to the
inside of fittings or tubing. Apply glue only to the outside
of the tubing. This will prevent glue from creating obstructions
which could clog your system. Run about 6" (15.24cm) of low-volt
wire through the guide hole in the mounting bracket. Split the
wire into two strands and strip 1" of insulation from each
strand. Wrap the strands in a clockwise direction around the
screws on the back of the inlet valve. Tighten the screws. Now
attach a weight to the end of the low-voltage wire and drop it
down to the basement or crawlspace.
Have a length of wire coat hanger ready with one
end bent into a hook. Insert the mounting bracket into the wall
hole...first down... then up...centering it. Take the hanger and
insert the hooked end of the hanger into the 90 degree elbow to
hold the bracket in place. Then, slide the inlet valve along the
wire hanger into the mounting bracket. Screw the valve into
place. Remove the wire hook. Caution: Inlet kits come with a
long and a short screw, so be sure to use the short screw in the
hole facing the elbow since the long screw could puncture it.
Be sure to mount the inlet valve so the lid pulls down to
open. Then apply glue to an adequate length of tubing and aim it
upwards through the hole in the sole plate and into the 90
degree fitting on the back of the mounting bracket.
Closet wall installation
Often the only
practical solution is to install your system with the tubing
going through a wall into a closet, then down through the closet
floor. To use this method, select a suitable inlet valve
location outside a closet—exercising the same precautions as for
normal wall installation. Then, using a length of coat hanger,
drill a hole through both walls. Hold the wire perfectly
horizontal so the interior and exterior holes line up with one
another. Check for inner wall obstructions by bending a short
length of coat hanger wire at a right angle and twirl the right
angle piece inside the wall. If there are no obstructions, drill
a 2-1/4" (5.7cm) hole horizontally through both walls. Enlarge
the hole in the exterior wall to accommodate the inlet valve
assembly (valve and mounting bracket). (As described above in
“Installing an inlet valve.”) Inside the closet, drill a pilot
hole through the floor beneath the opening in the wall or at a
convenient spot nearby to check for obstructions. If there are
no obstructions, cut a 2-1/4" (5.7cm) hole through the floor.
Run low-voltage wire through the hole in floor, and through the
wall to exterior of closet.
Pass low-voltage wire through the wire guide
hole in the inner wall closet assembly and tape low voltage wire
to this assembly immediately behind the bracket. Attach wires to
low-voltage terminals on the back of the inlet valve. Place the
inner wall assembly lengthwise through the wall opening and
arrange the assembly so the bracket is flush with the inside
surface of the wall. Screw the inlet valve to the wall.
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Floor valve installation
To install a floor inlet valve, drill a pilot hole with a wire
coat hanger and check the location as previously described. When
you are sure that the proposed location will not be blocked by a
joist or other obstruction, cut a hole in the carpet slightly
larger than your 2-1/4" (5.7cm) drill bit. Drill a 2-1/4"
(5.7cm) hole in the floor. Enlarge the opening to accommodate
the low-volt connections. Assemble an adapter reducer bushing
and attach the low-volt wire to the inlet valve. Drop the
low-volt wire to the basement. Screw the valve to the floor.
Repeat until all inlets are installed.
Multi-story homes
Multi-story homes usually require one or more inlets on each
level. Instead of trying to line up inlet valves from one level
to the next, run a separate line of tubing from the upstairs
inlet valve to a branch line or to the main trunk line. In a
two-story home, upstairs beneath the site you’ve selected for
the inlet valve, cut a hole just large enough to allow you to
reach the second-floor sole plate.
Hint: Cut the
hole low in the wall for easier drilling through the sole plate.
Cut a 2-1/4" (5.7 cm) hole in the sole plate. Install the
inlet valve just as before. Then, from the basement, insert a
length of tubing long enough to reach through the hole in the
second floor sole plate to the site for the inlet valve. You may
have to join several lengths of tubing. Measure and pre-cut
these pieces and test fit them before gluing. When you do apply
glue, work quickly to prevent the glue at the top end of the
tubing from drying out before it reaches the fitting at the
inlet valve. Remember: Apply glue only to the outside of the
tubing.
Hint: When
upstairs, remember to aim the elbow downward. Other ways to
reach the upstairs in your home are through the interiors of
closets or pantries, beneath a staircase, or with floor inlets.
If the inlet valve will be serviced from the attic, shorter
pieces of tubing joined by couplings may be required because of
overhead space restrictions. Again, measure and test fit. When
gluing, work quickly to prevent the glue from drying before the
tubing reaches the inlet valve.
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Installing an automatic sweep inlet
If
you’re installing an automatic sweep inlet...an automatic
dustpan...a very popular option for the kitchen, mudroom, and
bath...here are some pointers. First, determine the best place
to install the sweep inlet...usually beneath a cabinet...and
remove any molding or baseboard. Drill a pilot hole using a
length of wire coat hanger and find the wire in the ceiling
below. Drill up through the floor beneath the cabinet to check
for obstructions...and to make sure you can connect the tubing
to the main line. If there are no obstructions, enlarge the hole
in the floor beneath the cabinet and check the clearances. Now,
return to the kitchen/mudroom/bath to measure and saw the
rectangular hole for the sweep inlet and fasten the inlet into
place. In the basement, attach the tubing and string the
low-voltage wire just as you would for any inlet.
Hint: See sweep
inlet manual for details.
New Construction inlet valve installation
Select a site for the inlet valve and drill a pilot hole through
the floor. Go below to check that the tubing path is clear of
present, or future, obstructions such as floor joists, heating
ducts, plumbing, wires, etc. At the inlet valve location, drill
a 2-1/4" (5.7cm) diameter hole through the sole plate. The hole
should be 2" (5.1cm) from the side of the stud and centered
between the front and back edges of the sole plate. Glue a
length of tubing into a stud-mounting bracket assembly. Cut a
length of low-voltage wiring, bring approximately 6" (15.24cm)
through top wire guide hole in stud bracket assembly and double
it back into elbow hole. Tape wire to tubing at assembly elbow
and again close to end, and tuck remaining wire into bottom of
tubing. Screw plaster guard onto face of assembly.
Drop bottom of tubing through 2-1/4" (5.7cm)
hole and nail stud-mounting bracket assembly to stud. Make sure
the center of the inlet hole is at the correct height above
floor level and the tubing extends below the sub-flooring. To
prevent a nail or screw from penetrating the vacuum tubing,
install nail guards on the sole or top plates adjacent to the
tubing. See “Installation Step Six: Install the tubing” and
complete tubing installation as much as possible. After the
walls are finished and painted, plaster guards can be removed
and inlet valves installed. The tubing system may be completed
at that time and the power unit installed.
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Install the tubing
(Existing
Home or New Construction)
Beginning at the inlet farthest from the power unit, temporarily
fasten tubing for the main trunk line into position. Hint:
Loop string or low-voltage wire from a nail or overhead pipe,
etc., to cradle the tubing — holding it in position while you
work.
Push a length of tubing up into bottom of the
elbow on the inlet valve assembly. Piece together sections of
tubing without glue at first to make sure things fit properly.
Mark the connections so you can re-assemble them the same way.
Remember, the tubing enters the fitting approximately 3/4"
(1.9cm). Measure, cut, and de-burr tubing, and, using a 90
degree sweep elbow, slip-fit the vertical tubing line to the
main horizontal line. To avoid potential clogging problems when
installing tubing and fittings:
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Make straight cuts on tubing (pipe/tubing cutter
works well).
Remove burrs from ends of tubing.
Be sure tubing fits against the shoulder of the fitting with no
gaps.
Glue only the outside edge of the tubing before assembly into
fittings.
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Connect tubing from additional inlet valves to
the main trunk line using 90 degree sweep tee elbow fittings and
use clamps to hold the sections in place. Be sure to install the
sweep tee fittings so the sweep is toward the power unit. Always
run branch lines from the sides or top of the main trunk line
never out of the bottom because this will create a trap for dirt
to fall into. String the low-voltage wire along as you assemble
the tubing. Join or splice low-volt wires with wire connectors
at each junction or branch in the tubing. To make sure the
polarity is right, always attach wires of the same color to each
other…typically copper to copper and silver-to-silver. Proceed
until the tubing system is complete.
Masonry or concrete walls
If you have to run tubing through masonry or concrete walls,
rent a hammer drill and/or masonry hole saw. Run the tubing
through and patch the hole once you’re up and running. Before
drilling, check local building codes for special fire wall
penetration regulations. The code also should tell you if steel
tubing is required.
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Check your installation—to make sure it works
properly
All that’s left to do is check the quality of your installation.
First, check to see if you have a closed system; with no hose or
handle attached, and all inlet valves closed, there should be
little or no air coming through the exhaust on the power unit
when it is turned on. Second, with the system still running,
walk through your home. If you hear whistling or hissing, you
may have forgotten to glue a connection. Check basement and
attic areas, too. Third, have a helper plug the hose into each
of the inlet valves to be sure you can turn the power on. Turn
off the switch on the hose handle. If it does not shut off, the
low voltage wires are crossed somewhere…usually at an inlet
valve. |
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